It is possible to fold a single piece of paper into a signature this is how most commercially made books are bound.
Continue folding and tearing your paper in this manner until you have your leaf-sized pieces (which will be twice as wide as your signatures).(In my example, I have used the edge of the ruler, which is an okay substitution for a bone folder in a pinch, but it may create badly torn edges.) I tear gradually, in pieces about the length of the bone folder, rather than slitting it all at once like you would to open an envelope. Slide the edge of your bone folder in between the two halves of the paper, along the fold, to tear the paper in half.Crease with your bone folder (when I did these pictures, I could not find my bone folder, so you’ll have to imagine me using that to crease and tear the paper).
To tear your paper, fold it in half, lining up the edges and pressing the fold down with your fingers. Generally, you will be starting with a rather large piece of paper and will be tearing it down to individual leaves for your book.The way you tear down your paper will depend on how many pieces you are tearing it into, so this is just a general guide.In this example, I will be tearing down a 24 × 38-inch piece of paper into 8 pieces (leaves). IMPORTANT: Make sure your pieces are torn so that the grain of the paper is running parallel to where the spine will be once they are folded. So if I want my finished signature to be 5 inches × 8 inches, I would want my pieces to be approximately 11 inches × 12 inches for a cut edge, or approximately 12 inches × 13 inches for a torn edge.If you are trying to save paper, you may go a little less with the size of your end cuts, but it will make trimming your signatures more difficult, so be prepared for that. The rough-size pieces will need to be 2 times the width of your finished signature + 1 inch (if you want a torn edge on your signatures, this needs to be +2 inches) by the height of your finished signature +2 inches (if you are tearing your signatures you will want this to be + 3 inches). Yes, you will need to start out with pieces that are slightly bigger than your finished signature you will cut the signatures to final size after they have been folded together. Once you have determined the dimensions of your signature, you will need to tear the large sheets of text block paper down to rough size. For example, if my text block paper comes in sheets of 26 × 40 inches grain long (meaning the grain runs parallel to the 40 inch side), I may decide to do my signatures 8 inches × 11 inches, and I would get 6 leaves per sheet of paper with only a few inches of waste. But if you do end up with substantial end cuts, consider making some little matchbox size books. Try to use your sheet of paper wisely to get the most pages out of a piece of paper with the least amount of waste. Start by deciding the dimensions of your book. something heavy to press your signatures with (like a big book). punching tray (or a stiff cardboard box). 
X-acto knife (optional not necessary if you want a torn edge on your signatures).Here’s what you’ll need to prepare the text block: For example, you can use these instructions as you complete a soft cover Coptic book. I decided to make some fairly detailed instructions for some steps that are commonly used in all kinds of binding methods. This is meant as reference for anyone wanting to make their own books. Though the way a book is sewn and covered varies quite dramatically from binding to binding, the text block for a sewn book is quite similar. Most all sewn books have a two basic components: a text block and a cover.
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